Pakistan’s Handmade Carpet Industry
The areas throughout present-day Pakistan, known as the Indus Valley, were some of the first to cultivate the art of woven textiles worldwide. Handmade carpet weaving was introduced to the region as early as 11th century CE and grew in dominance after the start of the Mughal Dynasty in the 16th century. Carpets woven in Lahore were some of the first to reach European markets. In the 19th century, however, British colonial rule had a hugely negative impact on the industry with the establishment of enforced weaving programs in district prisons. These programs not only greatly reduced available jobs outside of prisons but also damaged the collective perception of the craft itself.
Fortunately, the industry was able to recalibrate following independence, and it began to improve with the return of weaving to home-based workshops and production facilities. Today, Afghan refugees are one of the main producers of hand knotted carpets in Pakistan. These skilled weavers have contributed to making carpets one of the country’s leading export products.
Label STEP in Pakistan
Label STEP began its work in Pakistan in 2024, establishing dozens of schools for the children of weavers and initiating a constructive, solution-oriented dialogue between all stakeholders in the country’s carpet industry. STEP has also been instrumental in reminding the government of its responsibility in the carpet industry, which employs hundreds of thousands of people in Pakistan.
STEP’s widely successful Weaver Empowerment program was piloted in Pakistan, where it was the first initiative of its kind in the informal sector. The program helps organise and educate local Weaver Groups so that they may improve their working conditions and negotiate better terms and wages with their contractors. STEP has since adapted and exported the concept to meet the local conditions of India, Nepal, and Afghanistan.
Pakistan serves also as a “gateway to Afghanistan” for STEP since the carpet industries in both countries are closely connected. A majority of Afghan carpets are still brought to this neighboring country for finishing, and reach the world market via Pakistan. Through close collaboration between the Afghan and Pakistan office, STEP is the only organisation able to track this cross-border carpet supply chain.
